Hello all,
This will be the last entry for my Central America trip. Yes, as many of you know I have been back in the states for a few weeks now and have been too busy/distracted to write my final entry. In truth, there may be a part of me that doesn’t want to complete it. As if, despite the fact that I am no longer traveling, I could stay in that mind-set as long as this blog is open-ended. Oh well, all things come to an end sometime.
Anyway, during our last week in El Salvador Lex and I trekked out to Carasque (a tiny rural town near the Honduran border) to stay with the family who hosted Lex for a week when she studied abroad down there. Merely getting to Carasque from San Salvador is an adventure in itself lasting 6+ hours on 3 buses. First we took the 42A in San Salvador the to Oriental Bus Station, then bus 125 for 3 hours out to Chalatanango (the closest town to anywhere in that northern region of the mountains), and then one last packed 3 hour bus ride on a winding mostly dirt road out to Carasque, where we were then dropped off in what to me looked like the middle of a beautiful nowhere. Thank god Eduardo had met us in Chalatanango to help us find our way to his house.
Eduardo, his mother Lydia, and their family were unbelievably kind, hospitable, and patient with my broken Spanish.We played soccer on their local field until the sun went down. It was absolutely the most picturesque soccer field I have ever played on. A large, but simple dirt and grass field next to a school, tucked among the mountains of northern El Salvador near the Honduran border.
On our last day in San Salvador we went to MARTE, Museo de Arte de El Salvador. I could not believe I was paying a mere $3 admission for their national art museum! They have a very impressive permanent collection of classical and modern art as well as an exhibit on Salvadoran art through the ages. It was a great day doing one of my favorite things, wandering through a museum, followed by an overpriced pseudo-Italian lunch at a nearby cafe.
Then on the evening of Thursday, March 25th, we boarded a plane and headed back to San Francisco, California.
I’m not sure what else to say other than it was a spectacular trip and exactly what I needed. I’m not going to say I found what I was looking for, because I’m still not sure what exactly that is. But the people I met, the sights I saw, things I felt, and the trip as a whole, were exactly what I needed.
When in Monteverde, I came across four words carved into the cement of the patio outside our hostel: travel saved my life.
Thanks to everyone for your love, support, and comments during my travels. I will continue to blog, though much more randomly (both in time and topic, just a warning!), at Webstertons. Maybe I will have a reason to write another travel blog in the future, but in the meantime free to follow me as I embark on my next adventure…employment in SF!
Love love love,
- A N I -
































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Hola todas y todos!
Lex and I are still in wonderfully cool Monteverde – tonight will be our fourth night. Just as Lex said she may stay behind in Samara, you may be able to find me here if I am missing in the future. I love the lush green rainforest everywhere, the cool temperatures, mist, multitude of coffee shops, and friendly people. We really lucked out when we decided to stay at Pension Santa Elena. We are in one of their newly built rooms with two double beds (one lofted WAY too high) for only $10 a person. What makes this hostel so great is the staff who are incredibly helpful (you can book anything in Monteverde from the front desk), friendly, and from all over (Italy, Costa Rica, Austin…). Oh, and there is free coffee all day.
On Saturday, our first full day here, we ate some left-over cinnamon pan for breakfast, drank coffee, and did some desperately needed laundry. After we walked about a mile or so (kilometers still confuse me) up the winding hills of Monteverde/Santa Elena to some great galleries of local artists (I may have to go back today to buy a small wood carving that hasn´t left my mind since).
I like Santa Elena
On the way back we stopped at The Common Cup because of a sign we saw for daily coffee roasting classes at 1pm. Terry Steig, this post is for you!
The Common Cup is a non-profit run by Ken Lander (a former trial attorney and real estate developer from Atlanta) and his family. Ken LOOOOOVES coffee. He loves to drink it, roast it, grow it, you name it. Dad, I was reminded of you the entire time we were there…maybe you should think about growing a small coffee plant in the back yard, I learned some tips. They serve FREE (yes, FREE) espressos and americanos all day and sell bags of their own wonderful coffee, grown and roasted right there.
Enjoying Ken´s dark roast
Ken walked us through how to roast his light and dark roast on his beautiful machine. Dad, try not to drool…
Made in Idaho, he bought it here in CR
smelling the roasted beans
Lex and the ¨hermanos¨coffee plant
the roasting process...
We learned all about the time/heat/air details it takes to make the perfect cup. Dad, I have a whole new respect for what you do!
The best thing about The Common Cup, other than Ken and his sweet family, is that all proceeds go directly back to the farmers (Ken owns a share too), and anything extra is put towards local programs for kids and education. It is beyond free trade, it is beyond fair trade. Ken even pays his coffee pickers by the hour, not by the bag (very rare anywhere) so that they have a steady income and he gets the most quality out of his plants. I´m tempted to come back when Ken sets up his internship program
Dad, if you get an email from Ken, it’s because I gave him your address. Feel free to email him about roasting or if you want to order some beans (he said he´d find a way to throw in a few bags of raw beans…).
Okay, so on to tarantulas…
I guess I´ve faced a lot of fears in the last few days. Everyone knows I´m not a fan of spiders or heights for that matter. Well, lucky for me, Costa Rica is somewhat known for both tarantulas and crazy canopy tours. The same day as our roasting class we went on a Night Tour of the wilderness around Finca Santa Maria (a family farm that decided about 10 years ago to cut their farming in half in order to be more sustainable and create a private reserve on the remainder of their property). Our guide, Arturo, looked and acted like he has spent his entire life calling animals in their native tongue at night. As we started our walk, I realized that I was not really prepared – mentally or otherwise. I did not bring a flashlight with which to navigate the nocturnal jungle…and I did not like the idea of being in a place where everything could see me, but I could see nothing. It ended up being an amazing 2 hours. Our lucky group saw 3 sloths (2 towed, not 3), 2 red-kneed tarantulas (one with an enormous butt!), 3 snakes, 2 sleeping birds, lizards, a cool little beetle with glowing headlight-looking things (found by yours truly), among other things.
Finca Santa Maria
It´s dead, but Lex wanted me to tell you it was real.
Before picture - not happy.
After our 10 minutes of training
Me, about to take off!
I think Lex liked it too.
Love love love and pura vida!
- A N I -
P.S. I´d like to give a shout out to everyone who has read this blog, but most of all to you wonderful COMMENTERS!! Big thanks for the support to Monica, Michela, Ray, Lucy, Mom, Dad, Dana, Tracey, Peter, Pops & Grams, Nichole Marie, Abby, Aunt Chrissy, Andrea Grace, Patty, and Meggie. You are all amazing and make this a much more enjoyable process. Sorry that I have not had time to respond to all of you – my internet time is crucial down here. Please keep commenting!
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Posted in Uncategorized | Tags: art, birds, bugs, butterflies, canopy tour, coffee, coffee roasting, comments, costa rica, dad, finca santa maria, galleries, granada, heights, ken lander, lex, lizards, monteverde, nebraska, nicaragua, night tour, pension santa elena, romero, salsa, san salvador, selvatura, sloths, snakes, tarantulas, the common cup, ziplining